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| GLOSSARY OF TERMS IN SHIRTINGS. |
A:
Alpaca
Alpaca sport over-tops are made from the hair taken in a humane way from the Alpaca (a relative of the Llama)
B:
Bevelled
Having a sloping edge or surface.
Bias
Diagonal direction of cloth. Ties should be cut on the bias (especially the blade) otherwise the tie will twist when worn.
Boxer Shorts
Cotton poplin as the shirts, with gusset at the back. Tyrwhitt embroidery on the hem.
Brass Collar Stiffeners
Thin brass strips that run down the inside of the collar to ensure the collars remain smart throughout the day.
Buttons
Pearlised on all Classic shirts. Sea Island shirts have real Mother of Pearl buttons. Cross and lock stitched.
Button-down Collar
Collar points are buttoned-down to the shirt.
C:
Cashmere
Fine wool from the undercoat of the long haired Kashmir goat, which is woven or knitted into soft fabrics that are luxurious to the touch. It is a fine, close weave.
City Shirts (Womens)
Formal collar shape fitted body shape with darts in both the front and back of the shirt. Wider double cuffs with pointed ends, cufflinks required.
Classic Shirts (Womens)
Made in pure two fold 100 cotton poplin. Collar cut to sit correctly on neck. Straight, generous cut body-shape. Available in single cuff only.
Collar
Most of our classic shirts are non-fused with a woven interlining (free-floating piece of material in the collar). Premium shirts all have fused collars.
Cuffs
Majority of our shirts come in both single & double cuff. The single cuff shirts have two buttons and the double cuff shirts have two-button holes for cufflinks.
Cufflinks
Cufflinks fall into three categories; Novelty, Sterling Silver and silk knots.
Cummerbund
Waistband of solid black silk made with pleats, to be worn with dinner jacket.
D:
Darts
A fold of fabric stitched to a point at one or both ends, giving shape to a garment.
E:
Egyptian cotton
From Egypt, inherent characteristic long staple; Fibres produced are long compared to other types of cotton.
End-on-End
Allegedly invented by the French, FIL-A-FIL. A fabric where a white thread is interwoven with the coloured thread, end upon end.
F:
Fabric
Cloth made from yarn. Yarn is woven into cloth. The weft threads run widthways and warp threads longitudinally.
Fibre
The two major fibre types are Egyptian cotton and Sea Island quality cotton.
French / Double Cuffs
Have square or round edges that turn back and are worn with cuff links.
G:
Gauntlet
Open part of the sleeve between the cuff and the elbow.
Gingham
Fabric with dyed yarns introduced at given intervals, both vertically and horizontally, to achieve block or check effects.
Goodyear Welted
In shoemaking, a welt is a strip of leather, rubber, or plastic that is stitched to the upper and insole of a shoe, as an attach-point for the sole. The space enclosed by the welt is then filled with cork or some other filler material (usually either porous or perforated, for breath ability), and the outsole is both cemented and stitched to the welt. This process of making shoes is referred to as Goodyear Welt construction.
Grenadine
A loose weave using twisted yarns, resulting in a fabric that resembles a knit.
Gusset
The re-enforcement at the bottom of the shirt between the front and back.
H:
Hem
A border made by doubling over the edge of the material, to stiffen it and remove the edging.
Herringbone
A twill fabric where the direction of the twill is reversed. Produces a pattern resembling herringbones. Hence a rich, lustrous sheen.
Houndstooth
Check with jagged edges resembling a dog's tooth.
L:
Lapis
A stone.
Linen
Fabric made of fibres removed from the stem of the flax plant; it was probably the first textile fabric to be used.
Linen Pants
Same linen as the shirts. Front darts, a side zip and side pockets, half-elasticated waistband at the back. Straight leg with a standard hem.
Linen Shirt
Pure linen that has been given a soft finish, a casual collar, a straight body shape with side vents and single cuffs.
M:
Marcella Front Evening Shirt
Marcella is the fabric on the front of the evening shirt and is to be worn with dress studs (4).
Mercerisation
A process whereby cotton is treated with a solution of Caustic Soda (Sodium Hydroxide) to improve its dye affinity and lustre. Invented by John Mercer in 1844. Used in the creation of Damask.
Mogador
A finely woven fabric of silk.
Mother-of-pearl
The hard, smooth, iridescent inner lining of the shell oysters, mussels, and other molluscs.
O:
Oxford Cloth
A plain weave fabric of medium or heavy weight. The majority of oxfords are of combed yarns, and are given a silk-like lustre finish. It has a characteristic pebbly basket weave construction.
P:
Pinpoint
A very tightly woven fabric with a very high thread count per inch, making the fabric very soft, a cross between poplin and oxford.
Placket
This is the strip of cloth that runs down the front of the shirt that the buttonhole is slit on, the width of this is 3.2 cm.
Poplin
Tightly woven, durable cotton made with a plain weave.
Polo Shirt
A close-fitting pullover with a button placket and a knit collar.
Premium
A luxury fabric exclusively made for us in Italy. The cloth has an extra finish so that it is silkier and softer.
Pyjamas
Made with the same cloth as the two-fold cotton poplin shirts. Features breast pocket, drawstring trouser with fly front, finished with piping.
S:
Sateen
A smooth, durable lustrous fabric usually made of cotton in a satin weave.
Sea Island cotton
Originally grown in the Caribbean, longer and finer fibre, a silkier and softer cloth than poplin. Strong colour and design definition. Real pearl buttons. Fabric will last longer as the yarn is so strong.
Shamina Shawl
Best quality pashmina cashmere. Characterised by the fact that you can pull shawl through a wedding band. It’s 200cm by 70cm.
Slim line Shirts (Ladies)
Sharp collar, no buttons on the neck. Slightly shaped body, no darts. Flip back cuffs with buttonholes for links.
Stitching
Visibly 16 stitches per 1 inch, this strengthens the shirt, and also ensures the seams remain sharp and tight.
Studs
A set of solid buttons with a shank or eye on the back inserted through a buttonhole; used on dress shirts and formal shirts.
Stretch Tops
A stretch Cotton/Lycra jersey knit. A rounded slash neck with ¾ length sleeves. The hem is straight with side vents.
T:
Tailored Pants
Pure wool that has a natural stretch. Very sleek shape. They are flat fronted with a concealed fastening on the waistband. Legs are straight with side pockets.
Tailored Trousers
Pure wool that has a natural stretch. Sharp tailored shape, tapered leg with a side vent.
Tattersall
A uniformly square pattern of lines of two or more colours forming squares on a solid background.
Ties
All ties are 142 cm (or 56”) long and 9.5 cm (3.5”) wide at the widest point (the blade); this is a standard shape and length. The bow ties are made of silk.
Twill
A weave characterised by diagonal lines on the surface of the fabric giving a depth of colour and silky finish.
Twist
Multi-stripe cotton and Sea Island Quality Twill. Slim body shape with a sharp collar and covered placket. The flip back cuffs have holes for links also have an additional button.
Two-fold yarn
All our yarn is 2-fold, this is where two yarns have been folded together.
W:
Waffle Pique
A cotton fabric made in a honeycomb weave, and used for sportswear.
Warp
This is the set of lengthwise threads attached to a loom before weaving begins. Each individual warp thread in a fabric is called a warp end. Warp means "that which is thrown across".
Weft or Woof
This is the yarn which is shuttled back and forth across the warp to create a woven fabric. In North America, it is sometimes referred to as the "fill" or the "filling yarn".
Wing Tipped Collar
A collar style resembling awing in appearance where the tips of the collar extend out like wings.
Y:
Yarn
A fine continuous length of fibres with or without twist, that is strong enough to be processed into fabric.
Yoke
The width of fabric that runs across the shoulder. All our shirts are made with a four-piece split yoke.
Z:
Zibeline
A thick lustrous soft fabric of wool and other animal hair, such as mohair, having a silky nap.
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